Bleeding

[dunk shaw]

Ok so ive not had this prob before but now ive got a nice gurgleing sound from the dash, i know ive got air in there after doing the heater hoses and draining the whole system but whats the best way to bleed this out ?

My cars already had a new heater matrix so its not that.


dunk

[UltraFlynn]

I don't have a new heater matrix but mine makes this noise too, so I'd be very interested to now how to bleed it.

Mine gurgles more when you rev the engine.

[Martin F]

The way i've done it in the past is to have the front of the car jacked up so that radiator is highest point. Take the radiator cap off and make sure coolant is topped up to the brim. Start the car and turn on the heater to full hot setting. Let the car come up to temperature so that the thermostat opens, all the time keeping an eye on coolant level and topping up if necessary. Once up to temperature rev the engine a few times (say 3k - 4k) let coolant settle and top up if necessary.

Turn off the car and let it cool down. Top up rad if required, refit radiator cap and then top up expansion tank to the max line.

Done it this way a few times and never had a problem. HTH

[UltraFlynn]

<stupid-question>
So the liquid which goes into the heater matrix is the same that is in the radiator?
</stupid-question>

Several questions spring to mind though: -

1. What affect does it having running the engine without the radiator cap on?
2. What do you top the radiator up with?
3. Where is the expansion tank?

[dunk shaw]

<stupid-question>
So the liquid which goes into the heater matrix is the same that is in the radiator?
</stupid-question>

Several questions spring to mind though: -

1. What affect does it having running the engine without the radiator cap on?
2. What do you top the radiator up with?
3. Where is the expansion tank?

Yes Flynn the heater matrix and engine are both supplied by the radiator ie there linked together and your water pump circulates this round the system.


1. Leaving the cap off lets air out the system but only as Martin says if the rad cap is the highest point in the system so the front of the car would need to be jacked up or on a steep slope. I was actually thinking of fitting a hose with a bleed cap in it,, to this hose arrowed ? but will give Martins route a try as that should work.

2, Toyota cool red, do not use tap water !!!

3. In front of the rad and needs to be approx half full with the cool red

dunk

[UltraFlynn]

I'm definitely going to give this a go now that I've figured out jacking the front of the car up.

Just got to get some coolant. (Might check with the garage that serviced it as to what they put in because the last time they did anything on the car they had to removed the radiator to do it. Which means that the coolant is brand new at the moment)

It would be nice to actually solve a small problem that I have with the car!

[Martin F]

If you think you're coolant is OK, you can just use some de-ionised water to top up with.

The mix i use in my car is 50% Toyota red and 50% de-ionised water (+water wetter). I don't need to worry about the anti-freeze as obviously my car is garaged and not used during the winter anyway (when it is on the road :p ).

[cossack]

my coolant system is full of red!!! i havent watered it down at all, mr T told me only to use the red coolant and nothing else as it is premixed. is this is wrong? as i see martin has mentioned a 50-50 mix above.

[Martin F]

No it's not wrong as the red coolant is usually supplied pre-mixed (you can buy the concentrated version as well i believe but it has to be specially ordered). Using it as it is straight from the tub is correct as specified.

However coolant is not as good a conductor of heat as water, so therefore by mixing mine down further i am increasing its conductivity. But as i say my car is garaged, never goes out in winter so i don't have to worry about it freezing at all.

Before anybody says, why don't you just use 100% water well thats not too smart as the coolant also includes inhibitors and lubricants for the water pump :p

[UltraFlynn]

What can go wrong when bleeding the system?

Totally guarantee that I'll do this and come up with a problem.

It looks straightforward but are there any pitfalls?

[dunk shaw]

What can go wrong when bleeding the system?

Totally guarantee that I'll do this and come up with a problem.

It looks straightforward but are there any pitfalls?

Getting scolded by hot waters one to avoid:twisted:




dunk

[Martin F]

Yeah, or forgetting to put the rad cap back on :D

[Suprash]

I tried bleeding my system once and the only prob I had was I couldnt leave the cap off for more then a few seconds as the water started to come over the top, maybe the system was too warm in the first place :confused:

[j80leo]

where do you get the toyota red from ??? never heard of it

[Martin F]

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrr, let me think about that...................





















































Toyota

:D

It's the recommended coolant for the MKIV

[suprarob]

Classic:laugh:

toyota do 2 types of coolant, green and red

the supra uses the red coolant

I've asked a toyota 'technician' what (apart from the colour) is the difference between the 2 and he couldn't tell me ??:doh: typical

[Martin F]

Most likely one is suitable for aluminium components (ie. heads) and the other isn't.

Or failing that it will be one has the forlife die in it for detecting exhaust gases in coolant and the other doesn't

[dunk shaw]

Well i got the car jacked up with the front wheels about a foot off the ground and started bleeding the system, it certainly helped get more air out but theres still air trapped in mine so im going to fit a bleed valve to one of the heater pipes.

[Martin F]

Stange to have so many problems.

I have heard of some of the yanks filling their systems via the heater hoses in the past, but never really looked into it.

[dunk shaw]

Martin ive not had this problem before and now think ive another fault in the heater system,,, when trying to bleed it had the heater on max temp and fan blowing full but this cut in and out at will until i turned the temp control down to approx 20-25 degrees and then the fan stayed on full ?
Almost like the temp control switch has started to play up, any ideas ?

Have got a bleed valve coming so will see if that helps when its fitted.

[Martin F]

Well could it be that the temperature was so warm in th car that it started to reduce the fan speed, but i guess you would have figured that out.

May well be worth doing the climate control diagnostics, they were posted up on another thread, you have to hold two buttons in as you start the car or something similar.

[dunk shaw]

Well could it be that the temperature was so warm in th car that it started to reduce the fan speed, but i guess you would have figured that out.

May well be worth doing the climate control diagnostics, they were posted up on another thread, you have to hold two buttons in as you start the car or something similar.

Wasnt down to the car being warm as i'd only just started bleeding the system and was getting it up to temp, cant say ive noticed this before as i havent had it on full hot and full fan for a long time.
I'll have to search out that climate control thread, theres obviously some temp sensor or similar thats playing up in my car as the fan works fine then if on full fan and max temp it cuts in and out as said earlier.

[Martin F]

Dunk - Did you eventually manage to get all the air out of your system?

The reason I ask as my car has been completely dry for a couple of years now and when I filled it up and bled it I have been left with air in just the heater matrix which i'm struggling with.

Have a couple of ideas, but just wondered if you found a good solution.

[dunk shaw]

Dunk - Did you eventually manage to get all the air out of your system?

The reason I ask as my car has been completely dry for a couple of years now and when I filled it up and bled it I have been left with air in just the heater matrix which i'm struggling with.

Have a couple of ideas, but just wondered if you found a good solution.

Afraid not Martin and now like you im back to square 1 having as you know taken those water pipes off at the bulkhead.
I was going to get a bleed nipple and fit it in the highest water pipe.
Let me know how you get on

[Martin F]

Will do.

[dunk shaw]

Well im getting nowhere and think the heater controll is playing up as i cant get any hot air through the vents in the car, still have the fan cutting in and out if set at max temp.

Ran the car up to temp with rad cap off and lots of air bubbleing out but only slightly warm air coming from the heater, made my own bleed valve and fitted to this hose but nothing comes out unless i raise the revs quite a bit.

Need info on the heater control and how much grief it is to change, any ideas Martin or do you have some info on the heater control switch.


Think i'll pop down to Toyota and have a look at there parts catalogue again :mad:

[dunk shaw]

forgot the picture, bleed valve fitted in the pipe arrowed

[dunk shaw]

Well ive got no where today apart from in the picture in the post above the hose arrowed isnt getting very hot, this is the return from the heater matrix i think ?, the pipe going into the matrix is hot like it should be, the system was flushed out when the new heater matrix was fitted so other than a blockage or f***ed heater matrix what can it be ?

Is the flow of hot water permantly flowing through the matrix or does it have some kind of valve that opens when hot air is called for ?
Ive searched a bit now and not getting the info i need so any links to a diagram of the heater system or the climate control info would be very much appreciated

[dunk shaw]

found the climate control info and will do some checks when my toyota technician comes to have a look, i think now seeing the info you posted Martin that my problem could be the water valve that appears to be right by the top of the matrix, if its that then its dash out again and i really will be a happy bunny

[Martin F]

Dunk, been out of the country for a couple of days so only just picking up on this.

Yes, there is a water valve on the inlet to the matrix, but i'm not sure how easy it would be to see if say you removed the glove box.

If I get really stuck with mine, i'm considering taking the two hoses off which go into the bulkhead and seeing if I can connect a hose up and run water through, ie. prove the path is not blocked.

[dunk shaw]

Dunk, been out of the country for a couple of days so only just picking up on this.

Yes, there is a water valve on the inlet to the matrix, but i'm not sure how easy it would be to see if say you removed the glove box.

If I get really stuck with mine, i'm considering taking the two hoses off which go into the bulkhead and seeing if I can connect a hose up and run water through, ie. prove the path is not blocked.

No probs Martin, do you know what controls the water valve ? i cant see mine being blocked as it was all flushed through when the new matrix was fitted, the hose flush is a good idea as long as the valve im on about is working.
Taking mine to Weston Performance who are 5 mins from me as the owner there said they'll check all the fault codes etc and find out whats wrong for free !! i'll know for definate by thursday next week whats wrong.

If it is the valve then i'll have a look if its getatable through the glove box and save the dash out again fun, ive fond memories :zipped: not !!

[Martin F]

I'm pretty sure it's the AC amplifier which controls the valve.

I'm sure the codes are on here for AC diagnostics somewhere, if not i'll try and dig them out over the weekend.

If i get chance perhaps i'll see if i can resolve mine this weekend.

[dunk shaw]

I'm pretty sure it's the AC amplifier which controls the valve.

I'm sure the codes are on here for AC diagnostics somewhere, if not i'll try and dig them out over the weekend.

If i get chance perhaps i'll see if i can resolve mine this weekend.

The A/C amplifier ? which bits that lol

I think i found the codes etc you posted and have printed them off along with the drawing of the dash with the heater matrix in it.

Good luck with yours and think you'll be fine as long as no blockages and the valves working, there shouldnt be a problem bleeding our cars unless theres a fault so im being told.

[Martin F]

The A/C amplifier ? which bits that lol


It's the control unit that sits on top of the stereo and takes the input from the switches on the dash and controls the servos, valves etc.

I've never had a problem in the past, but this is the first time i've ever had to do one from totally dry.

[dunk shaw]

Thanks Martin, ive got a workshop manual now so im not scratching my head anymore :D

[dunk shaw]

How are you getting on with yours ?

[Martin F]

Not going to get chance to get on to that today.

Up a little late and just fitting mesh onto the front bumper.

[dunk shaw]

Not going to get chance to get on to that today.

Up a little late and just fitting mesh onto the front bumper.

No wonder its taking so long :D

[dunk shaw]

Took mine to Weston Performance yesterday and no fault codes !!!

I have left it with them to look into it further, i'll get them to fit my new waterpump and stat while there at it.

[Martin F]

Woooo Hoooo, I know have heat in the cabin :D

Removed the two hoses going into the firewall and I couldn't blow through them so figured something was blocked. Spent many hours trying to check whether the water valve was open inside the cabin and concluded that it was.

Back flushed the matrix, left it flushing for a good ten mins (garden hose). Then filled up the matrix as best i could with coolant, put it all back together and low and behold I had heat :D

[Mike_Mac]

Woooo Hoooo, I know have heat in the cabin :D

Just in time for summer!!:tongue2:

Seriously - it's nice when a long standing problem gets solved. :brushteeth:

[UltraFlynn]

That's great news mate.

Does it gurgle when you rev it?

[Martin F]

Just in time for summer!!:tongue2:


Have you experienced a summer in East Anglia! :tongue2:

Matt - Time was getting on a bit so not too wise to be reving it. If it does gurgle at all you can be sure i'll be sorting it out at some point.

[UltraFlynn]

I know from experience that you're quite capable of sorting out even the most tricky problems by candlelight as late as 10:30pm. :)