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Old 3rd September 2008, 02:54 AM   #1
Guyver
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Talking Fit An Active Spoiler

How To fit an Active Spoiler

This how assumes you have the wiring loom fitted to your car and doesn’t includes any wiring diagrams.

What you need:

1. Active Spoiler assembly.

I’m going to assume this is second hand as they are very expensive from Toyota. A complete spoiler assembly should come complete with an under tray it’s an integral part of the spoiler as the motor and frame all bolt to it.
It should look like this…



There are some differences between and active spoiler under tray and a normal one that it’s well worth getting hold of one (if you didn’t get one with your spoiler) than trying to get an ordinary one to fit.
You can see the differences below…









2. The spoiler and mounting plates and bolts.

Main mounting bolts (x5) pt# 90109-08241
Spoiler Part # 76852-14010
Mounting plates (called Retainer)
Retainer No.2 RH pt# 76863-14030
Retainer No.1 centre pt# 76855-14020
Retainer No.2 LH pt# 76864-14030
Bolts (x11) pt# 90109-06242
Also you may need the bolts that fix the spoiler bar (the big bit with a rubber strip on it) to the under tray. I used 6x M6 bolts cut to 12mm long (that thread length not including the head) with spring washers and plain washers (6 each).

The lot should look like this (the spoiler assembly has been strip for these pic’s)





3. Active spoiler ECU and switch.

Best bet is to get them second hand as well, they are expensive new.

* A thing to note if you are fitting this to a facelift car then you will need to drill extra holes at the front of the under tray. Facelift cars have 5 bolts at the front not 3 as for pre facelift cars. Compare my original under tray with that for the active spoiler.



* If I’ve missed anything I’m sure you lot will let me know .
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1997 FaceLift Twin Turbo stock at the moment.
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Old 3rd September 2008, 02:56 AM   #2
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Fitting.

First we need to find out if you already have the needed wiring loom in place. So we need to find the plugs, there are three of them one each for the motor, ecu and switch.
The plug for the motor will be under the offside headlight (driver’s side for those of us who drive on the correct side of the road).



The plugs for the ecu and switch are behind the dash (again I’ll assumed you know how to remove the dash). If a spoiler has never been fitted before then the plugs will be very well tuck away but when found they look like this…

Ecu plug




Switch plug


As long as you’ve got these we can continue.

First we can plug in the ecu and switch. The ecu slide into a bracket above the ABS ecu and clicks into place. The switch needs to plugged in and then clipped into the dash as you reassemble it.





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1997 FaceLift Twin Turbo stock at the moment.
Volk Racing SF Challenge wheels and UK brakes finally fitted.
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Old 3rd September 2008, 02:59 AM   #3
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Now to the outside of the car, you will need to jack the front of the car up and rest it on axle stands, remove the headlights and your under tray. Keep the fixings from the under tray. If an active spoiler has never been fitted to your car you will need to change side panel’s under the car. You can buy new ones for Toyota pt# are 51452-14030 (LH) & 51451-14010 (RH). However this is only necessary if you don’t have any side panels to start with as you can cut down your original ones.



Cut away the green area keep the rest . The blue circle is where the intercooler pipe goes. The other blue circle on the panels are where the panel has both part numbers on it.
To remove these you will need to undo the inner wheel arch cover the more you undo the cover the more room you will have to unbolt the side panel and remove it. Sorry no photos of that part. When cut and refitted it should look like this…



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Old 3rd September 2008, 03:04 AM   #4
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Now we can think about fitting the spoiler assembly.
If your spoiler is already assembled then good for you and you can miss this next part. For those of you that had to get all the bits separately here’s how to assemble it.


First the bar that the spoiler will bolt on to needs to bolted to the under tray (can’t miss it, it has a rubber strip on it). 3 M6 bolts each side (I used spring washers on mine so the shouldn’t come undone).





Next the two black ‘L’ shape parts need to be fitted. These go through the under tray and point out.







Now the long bar can be threaded through ready for the mounting plates.



The motor can now be fitted to the offside end of the bar you just fitted with the other plate on the other end. There are two bolt holes each end but I only had one bolt. I replaced a missing one with a M6 bolt 34mm long (again it’s thread length taken from under the bolt head) and a nut. Although there are two bolt hole each end I’ve had no problems fitting just one each end. When you fit the mounting brackets don’t tighten the bolt as you need to move the plate’s outwards (the holes are slotted), this helps when you fit it to the car. These plates are also bolted from underneath the under tray I used a long M6 bolt for this with a large washer to cover the hole in the under tray (the hole also has a rubber gromet around it).





It is now ready to fit to the car.

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Old 3rd September 2008, 03:07 AM   #5
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There are two pins on the chassis that allow you to hook the spoiler assembly in place making it easier for you to bolt it in (or you can try holding it in place and bolting it in at the same time).





Raise the unit up into car and hook the mounting plates onto the pins. This can be a bit of a pain as the corners need to go up higher than before and need some persuading, flexing the bumper a bit helps.





You can now bolt the mounting plates in place . You need to use bolts supplied from Toyota as these are shaped under the head to locate the bracket in place (pt# 90109-08241). I don’t have a torque setting I just did them up nice and tight.





Refit the fixings from your old under tray to your active spoiler’s under tray and plug the motor in. The bolts you left loose when you fitted the motor and NS mounting plate earlier can now be tighten. Easy on a pre facelift car but as you can see there’s not a lot of room on a facelift car.





Now we can fix the spoiler the to the car using the 3 retainer plates and 11 bolts.



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Old 3rd September 2008, 03:09 AM   #6
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We can now test to see if it all works, turn on the ignition but don’t start the engine. Press down on your switch and the spoiler should go down (clever stuff), pressing off or starting your engine will raise it.







If all is in working order then refit your headlights, lower the car off the axle stands and you are all done.





Operation.

With AUTO SPOILER on the spoiler will lower 5 seconds after 90kph / 56mph.
If you are accelerating between 90kph (56mph) and 120kph (74.5mph) the spoiler is lowered 0.1 seconds after 120kph (74.5mph) is reached.
The spoiler retracts when your speed falls below 65kph (40mph).
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1997 FaceLift Twin Turbo stock at the moment.
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Old 4th September 2008, 11:57 AM   #7
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strephen just going to fit my spoiler after receiving the bolts from mr t today so ill be the first to try it out! brilliant write-up though and thankyou very much for your help!! i have recently made a loom to hardwire to a switch before realising i had the wiring made with the original motor plug from mr t bought from steve manley, so if any one needs one and hasnt got the wires then pm me ,happy to help
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Old 19th April 2009, 07:01 PM   #8
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If you have any questions please feel free to post up in the General Supra Chat
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