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Chassis Drive train, Brakes, Steering and anything else chassis wise |
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4th July 2006, 01:25 PM | #1 |
Sex, drugs and Hardhouse
Jap Spec RZ-S - Manual Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Basingstoke, Hants.
Posts: 1,576
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Taping/knocking noise from brakes
Well maybe my mechanics isnt what I hoped, but Im determined not to let this beat me. I swapped my discs and pads, everything went back correctly baring the odd small clip thats for pad wear (so I was told), but now I have a tapping noise that seems to go once brake pressure is applied. Now the pads are in correctly, the pins that hold them in are in good, the anti-rattle clip is in and the safetey pin for the main pad bolts are also ok, there doesnt seem to be any movement from the pads or caliper itself when you give things a good tug etc, so I just cant for the life of me think why there would be a tapping noise that disappears under brake pressure.....???
Discuss........... |
4th July 2006, 02:54 PM | #2 |
stella monster
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did u copper slip everything???? also did u fit a new set of shims????? i had the same problem ages ago, sloved with coppergrease and shims.
baz
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4th July 2006, 02:59 PM | #3 |
stella monster
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u only need a small gap fella to produce that annoying rattle. i'd make sure that the pins are free from rust etc, apply the grease to them. did u put in new anti rattlle shims??? really should use new pins,shims etc.
i've got a fitting instrustions somewhere. if u follow them u cant go wrong if u do a search im sure u will find it. baz
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4th July 2006, 03:28 PM | #4 |
Sex, drugs and Hardhouse
Jap Spec RZ-S - Manual Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Basingstoke, Hants.
Posts: 1,576
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Ok all this shim stuff just confuses me, so I'll put it in simple terms what I did.
I didnt use new pins, as I didnt get new pins in any of the kit, this is the pins that go through the caliper and hold the pads yeah..... The anti rattle clips which clip over and under both pins were new......as are the saftey type clips that stops the pins from sliding out, thus loosing your pads probably..... The metal plates that sit on the back of the pad was new and, both the back of the pad and the plate were copper greased before they were put into the caliper........ Im sure this is a loose pad, but how can you have a loose pad if its being held by both pins...... |
4th July 2006, 03:29 PM | #5 | |
Sex, drugs and Hardhouse
Jap Spec RZ-S - Manual Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Basingstoke, Hants.
Posts: 1,576
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Quote:
What gap, where Baz......?? |
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4th July 2006, 04:26 PM | #6 |
Sex, drugs and Hardhouse
Jap Spec RZ-S - Manual Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Basingstoke, Hants.
Posts: 1,576
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Dont suppose anyone is about at the moment that I could mail some pics to from my phone. The wheel and caliper are now stripped down and pads removed, I have double checked the link to MKIV.com and the only thing missing was the pad spacers, which I shall have to re-fit the old ones as I didnt get new ones of these in any of the kits......
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4th July 2006, 04:46 PM | #7 |
Old Timer
None - Don't currently own a MKIV Supra. Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bolton, Manchester, UK
Posts: 1,476
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ash, whens the noise? reverse or forwards?
mine used to do it in reverse, then i did the brakes and it changed to forwards. it turns out that the metal clip thingy that goes under and over the pins is designed to let them clunk one way or the other. pop the pins out and refit the metal thingy so that the 'V' shape is facing the top of the caliper. this will make the noise in reverse. it isnt half as loud in reverse and ive not had a clunk forwards since i switched em! hope that helps mate. |
4th July 2006, 06:13 PM | #8 |
Sex, drugs and Hardhouse
Jap Spec RZ-S - Manual Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Basingstoke, Hants.
Posts: 1,576
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Rob, that very theory passed through my head, but I was standing there looking at thinking, surely that wont make a huge difference.
Anyway it just so happens I made sure that clip went the other way round as I was looking at MKIV.com and just thought as long as I make sure every clip is facing the right way and it goes back as it shows there, there shouldnt be any problems. Well I have done that, with the clip around the other way, got it all back together and just took her out for a drive, and so far no clunking noise, although I did get a clunk on the first hard brake but not again since so Im hoping that was just them settiling or something....lol Could I have actually solved it, so far so good.......... Anyone know how to adjust your handbrake........? Anyhow Im off for a cold beer and cool bath, it was too hot out there today.......
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Supra TT 6spd Hybrid turbos,full de-cat,HKS Hyper,Blitz Induction kit,Apexi Boost & EGT gauge,Southbend clutch,Lightened flywheel,Goodridge steel brake lines,Walbro pump/FSE & AFR,Racing hart wheels,Blitz skirts and a Bomex front. Last edited by Suprash; 4th July 2006 at 06:16 PM. |
4th July 2006, 06:40 PM | #9 |
Administrator
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Without seeing the car all i can really do is throw information at you.
Here's a picture taken from the EPC which may or may not help. Also make sure you are aware of this. http://mkiv.com/tmp/brake_click/ Probably a bit late for this now, but it's important when taking things apart and you're not 100% sure how they go back together (or there's the possibility of it being a while until you go to put things back together) that you take some pics or good notes. What can seem like the simplest job can always catch you out
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